Tuesday, June 23, 2009

More from the and about the Jungle of Bukit Lawang and the people

After my last journal entry from writing on the middle of a rock in the jungle river we had a little surprise. Our guide got word from another guide up river that an Orangutan and her little friend (not child) were walking towards us on the river bed. I grabbed my camera and headed that way with a few others. We walked about 10 minutes and easily spotted the two. The lighting wasn't bad their red hair contrasted the riverbed nicely and the two didn't mind me getting too close from the river..see pictures at FB. At one point while I was taking pictures from a rocky outpost, the orangutan decided that it wanted to sit where I was and sent me into the river chest deep with my camera and a friend- Awesome! That morning was one of the best I've ever had. Waking up early enough to appreciate all the sounds and sights of my surroundings, tired legs, sore feet, interaction with orangutans. I ate a jungle fruit breakfast (passion fruit is so amazing), drank clean river water Sumatran coffee and later enjoyed the pure existence of this place soaking and bathing in the river. Water itself has never felt so much like such pure life to me.

Just so you know- I mentioned that there were two Orangutans here on the river, An older female and her younger friend. I say friend because I found out later from Firman that the younger ones mother was killed by another Orangutan in something like a territorial dispute. The child escaped. Lost and lonely, in need of a mother, the older female I saw with him took the youngster as her own. Although the younger one is now 6 or seven years old, the two are mostly still inseperable. I heard another story that's also quite sad that I'll share it with you here aswell. The jungle is ,of course, no easy place to survive. The first few years of an Orangutans life are crucial to it's survival. Occasionally an infant dies. When this happens, it's not unusual to find the mother carying the child with her on her back even weeks later as the body stinks and decays. It pauses sometimes to shake it or try to feed it, care for it or just try to wake it up. On My trek, I was informed that one such Orangutan is in that jungle now. I'm greatfull that I did not see her. It would have broke my heart.

After a second breakfast of pineapple and passion fruit and maybe just a little relaxing and sandcastle making with two friends I made from Holland, we had lunch and packed up our things for a float down the jungle river through mild rapids. All the while laughing hard at our own jokes and antics. We floated with the rolling water past jungle children playing, mothers bathing in the river, palm roofed huts scattered and all the splendor of the jungle canyon. Trees draped the hillsides with lush shades of green, flowers blossomed in every direction people smiled and waved every time we passed them- anxious to practice their English. After a short while, seeing houses and people became more frequent and we approached the village of Bukit lawang and the first of three foot bridges that join the two opposite banks of the river. Near the it seemed that all the people of Bukit Lawang were in the river to greet us with their laughter, friendly eyes and excited hellos and how are yous. But, they weren't there for us. They were there because it's what they do- Enjoy the life that surrounds them like I did in their jungle home as a guest for the time we shared it together.

Life here hasn't always been so great-

On a sadder note, In 2003 The jungle village of Bukit Lawang was nearly completely destroyed by a flash flood in the rainy season. It was Ramadan, Many of the residents were weak from fasting, the flood happened at nighttime and there was no electricity. In the space of minutes, Massive fallen trees swept by a wall of water came crashing through the night and down river instantly wiping out many of the houses and home stays in the area. At least 300 people died and everyone in the area was affected. Most of the people I met here eventually told me about how they lost close family members. The good news is that this stronghold of humanity has made a slow and steady recovery and certainly thrives today!

In a personal note, ( you don't have to read this) I think that the Jungle people of Bukit Lawang are as important to the essence of humanity with their rich child like laughter, warm friendly hearts, welcoming arms, clever perseverance, honor and dignity as our sky rises, computers and automobiles. I think it would be wise on our part to take note of their example of humanity as they cannot escape the presence of ours.

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