Tick Tock in Kuta-After Bromo, Prambanan and Borobodur

Holly wowness friends and peekers. I'm nearing the end of an epic journey. If you enjoyed this blog, you should know that I'm not done yet. and I'll probably continue to post at this site for my future travels. Still, I have one last day in Indonesia and 3 days, 2 nights in Hong Kong. I'm thinking that for my next trip- If I have a few months available, I'm going to India and if I only have a month, I want to do Viet Nam and Laos.. But If you're like me, I'm certainly open to suggestions. Here's what I've been up to the last week or so.

Shit, It seems like I have been travelling hard these last few days! Since leaving Toba busing and flying all that day then arriving in Jakarta only to realize that I couldn't hang in the contrast of my previous tranquil surroundings vs the most amazingly chaotic city i've been in then busing again after finding out that the train had been oversold and that my ticket wasn't valid and busing it 15 hrs to Jogjakarta, Hitting Jogja hard and visit temples on tours, drinking in alleyways at 3 am the night before with new friends and then busing it to Bromo all the next day to wake up again for another sunrise tour of some of the most magnificent scenery I've ever witnessed then immediately busing it again all day to catch a ferry to Denpasar, Bali then taking a cab with some new friends to Kuta where I walked the streets at night with my backpack in search of accommodation. Success. (that's alot of "ands"I'm here now road weary yet somehow supercharged and excited to see Hong Kong. Still, buses can give you an unparalleled sense of filth that is in so many ways dehumanising. I think a long, very long shower followed by a massage is going to be my remedy! Cha ching!

Indonesia, you have been so kind, welcoming and good to me. You've opened my eyes to appreciate your beauty and diverse culture. Thank you for sharing with me The shores of Bali, The monstrous Komodo Dragon, the intriguing nature of the orangutan, the peace and tranquility of Toba, the sand and serenity of Gilly islands, the mayhem of Jakarta, the temples of Jogjakarta, the magnificent sights and scenery of Bromo and The heart of the jungle. I could go on and on. Terima Akasi!

I'm uploading some photos to facebook, here's a few here to give you a taste of what's over there. You should also know that I can't tell the quality of my pictures at the moment the screen I'm using has a double view and is quite blurry. I hope that I'm uploading the good ones. Either way, I have only uploaded a fraction of my favorite pictures to facebook. I have hundreds to go through when I get home in a few days and look forward to sharing them with you after I crop them and possibly adjust the levels.

Hello Guys. I couldn't hang in the big city of Jakarta. You would not believe how big it is and how many people are there. For example, there's one night club that opens on Thursday and closes on Monday morning. It holds a meager 4000 people! Alcohol is also not the escape of chioce.. Strange, I know, in a country that happily announces on every flight that drug trafficking is a crime punishable by death. P.S. Have a nice day!

Jogjakarta is a different place all together. Still quite large in size, Jogja is ruled by a Sultan. Although the people here are primarily Muslim, There's a massive and mostly abandoned Buddha statue and temple here and a Hindu Temple of which I'm also going to visit tomorrow.

Today, I've been wandering around the little city villages of Sosrowijayan. There's three main areas, Gang one two and three which are mostly little walkways and crawlspaces that you have to be Indonesian to get through. They're each separated by walls. For good reason too, Gang three is where the prostitutes hang out. Gang1 and two are more or less hotels(I use that word loosely here) shops of sorts and restaurants. The people here are very friendly and kind. I have to wake up early to catch the sunrise over the Buddha statue but it shouldn't be a problem because my room is feet away from the mosque and here they start praying at 430 am with a loud song hailed over amplified speakers that lets the world know that everybody should praise Allah.

I'm killing some time here surfing the net and chillin because all my action will be tomorrow and have little else to do. I'm uploading a video of one of the orangutans I saw in Bukit lawang because It's the coolest thing to watch them walk and you should see it for yourself. This one is the one I was photographing from the river who decided that the rock I was on looked like a good place to sit-Sending me into the water with my friend. Also I'm uploading a video of my view at lake Toba.

Jungle Tigers

I have to say something about this because it's been eating away at me for quite some time. You may be as surprised to hear this as I have witnessed it for the whole of the time I've been in indonesia... Remember this though when you read a post like this one from me- the last thing I want to be is a preacher- I loathe them on most occasions because I believe that we should be smart enough to try to figure out the best path to our own identity and subsequent goodness. What I would like to be is an observer of life that can share it with friends from my perspective. Sometimes I'm ignorant, sometimes completely naive, sometimes I'm even offensive. But, Hopefully I can keep a measure of humility, a strong adventurous and optimistic spirit and an eagerness to learn about and share the beauty of human life that surrounds us even if I cannot help but to share our struggles, challenges and defects- It's is my solid belief that we learn the most from those.

So, here's what I have to say.

Seriously, it's not so uncommon to see beautiful young south east asian women under the arms of fat old white men far from their prime. The sight is usually disturbing to me. Many men come here to find a wife to live with, love and cherish for the rest of their life, have children with and adore. On the flip side, and the reason that I'm often disturbed by their presence is the fact that sexual tourism thrives in south east asia. The women here are so eager to find a loving western partner that the end up with so many men who essentially treat them as prostitutes. See, marraige here isn't always initially about love. Arrainged marraiges are common and primarily, a marraige is an aggreement between two people to take care of eachothers needs and to be good parents to their children..Men are providers and the women are the regulators. Love, hopefully comes in the package. Indonesia is a different than much of the rest of the surrounding areas. Outside of the Jakarta and Bali, Women are etremly oldfashined and shy. The interest in western men is certainly strong but they are reserved, proper and dignified. Not to say that every available girl doesn't let you know that she's interested, she just wont give her heart or body away so easily or wrecklessly- Her family, friends and Village are all watching. In Toba, I did meet a girl that I was very attracted to. She was beautiful, charming and sweet. She showed me around the town, introduced me to all her friends and taught me about her culture. We had drinks together and danced the night away. For a moment there, I dreamed of taking her away with me and giving her the life of a princess, she was so sweet (regardless of the fact that her ancestors ate humans) I didn't though, and the extent of our physical relationship never even succeeded a goodbye kiss that I will remember forever. It would be so easy to be the kind of guy who indulges in the ease of the moment with these willing, beautiful, younger girls.. but, I know from unfortunate experience that when you break a womans heart because you're a traveller and simply have to listen to the call of the road and can't take her with you that it stays with you and you're an asshole if if you can feel good about yourself and live with it. So for me, atleast, my rule is fun.

After that preface, Here's what might shock you.
TOURIST WOMEN HERE ARE THE BIGGEST SEXUAL TOURISTS I"VE MET! The indonesian girls are reserved and usually keep to themselfes (remember like I said..outside of the big cities) But anything goes for the guys! Keep in mind ladies that the men here also have feelings, they also dream of making a new life somewhere new and exciting and hope to live in relative riches and enjoy the western world. The closer I got to the jungle or even off the beaten path, the more women I saw with indonesian boyfriends, the more stories I heard from the locals about how western girls are crazy with jungle fever. It seemed that every local guy had atleast one tale of the girl who was here for a week, fucked his brains out and left him for dead, a shell of a man.

My last night in Toba, I danced with all my new friends. We celebrated, laughed and drank Arak, vodkas and beer. Beneath our laughter a growing sadness loomed and grew inside of me. It wouldn't be long and I would leave he girl that I had become so fond of without even kissing. (Sucker alert, I know) At one point in the night, as the party was dying down, I found myself alone with my thoughts. A young Indonesian Butok man walked by me and said casually "You look lonely brother, I'm lonely too!" and walked by. After I said my goodnights and goodbyes I walked down the road towards the Reggae hotel where I was staying and the same man ran from the bar saying "Brother, I'll give you a ride on my motorbike, Wait. I have to get out of here too" I aggreed, Bottle of Vodka in one hand, Bottle of water in the other. A beautiful Finnish girl chased him out of the bar. He didn't have to tell me what he was feeling. I'd seen them around town and all that night playing like young lovers. It was also her last night in his town and he knew as well that their relation ship was over. Infront of me stood a broken hearted man in too much pain to even be with the girl that he'd fell in love with because she would leave him and probably never see him again. A tear welled in his eye as he looked at the dusty street in his little town far from the places where movies are made, far from places where families don't share houses, far from places where there's reliable clean water, flushing toilets and efficient sewage systems. She laughingly begged him not to leave because she needed one more night with him. I handed him the bottle of vodka, patted him on the shoulder and walked home. So, is it better to have loved and lost rather than never to have loved at all? I'll say for me atleast that it depends on your intentions.

About Toba

Lastly, I have nothing to do today but meet some people later on.

I've arrived at Lake Toba. This is a really mellow place. I'm not sure how long I'm going to stay here because the end of my journey is approaching at light speed. In contrast to the people North of here, The Butok people of the Toba area are christian. It's a good thing too! Not even two hundred years ago they were eating their enemies and criminals. Ruins of that society and recorded history remains. Yesterday, I visited the old village where criminals were tried and beheaded before being eaten. Erie! An interesting note- before being killed and eaten, the dinner guests were tortured and marinaded with onion, lime, salt and garlic.

I have to run, It is actually time for lunch.

Mom, wouldn't it be strange if I fell in love with a girl who's ancestors were cannibals? I met one last night! She can hula hoop, dance to hip hop and carry a beer on her head all at the same time!

More from the and about the Jungle of Bukit Lawang and the people

After my last journal entry from writing on the middle of a rock in the jungle river we had a little surprise. Our guide got word from another guide up river that an Orangutan and her little friend (not child) were walking towards us on the river bed. I grabbed my camera and headed that way with a few others. We walked about 10 minutes and easily spotted the two. The lighting wasn't bad their red hair contrasted the riverbed nicely and the two didn't mind me getting too close from the river..see pictures at FB. At one point while I was taking pictures from a rocky outpost, the orangutan decided that it wanted to sit where I was and sent me into the river chest deep with my camera and a friend- Awesome! That morning was one of the best I've ever had. Waking up early enough to appreciate all the sounds and sights of my surroundings, tired legs, sore feet, interaction with orangutans. I ate a jungle fruit breakfast (passion fruit is so amazing), drank clean river water Sumatran coffee and later enjoyed the pure existence of this place soaking and bathing in the river. Water itself has never felt so much like such pure life to me.

Just so you know- I mentioned that there were two Orangutans here on the river, An older female and her younger friend. I say friend because I found out later from Firman that the younger ones mother was killed by another Orangutan in something like a territorial dispute. The child escaped. Lost and lonely, in need of a mother, the older female I saw with him took the youngster as her own. Although the younger one is now 6 or seven years old, the two are mostly still inseperable. I heard another story that's also quite sad that I'll share it with you here aswell. The jungle is ,of course, no easy place to survive. The first few years of an Orangutans life are crucial to it's survival. Occasionally an infant dies. When this happens, it's not unusual to find the mother carying the child with her on her back even weeks later as the body stinks and decays. It pauses sometimes to shake it or try to feed it, care for it or just try to wake it up. On My trek, I was informed that one such Orangutan is in that jungle now. I'm greatfull that I did not see her. It would have broke my heart.

After a second breakfast of pineapple and passion fruit and maybe just a little relaxing and sandcastle making with two friends I made from Holland, we had lunch and packed up our things for a float down the jungle river through mild rapids. All the while laughing hard at our own jokes and antics. We floated with the rolling water past jungle children playing, mothers bathing in the river, palm roofed huts scattered and all the splendor of the jungle canyon. Trees draped the hillsides with lush shades of green, flowers blossomed in every direction people smiled and waved every time we passed them- anxious to practice their English. After a short while, seeing houses and people became more frequent and we approached the village of Bukit lawang and the first of three foot bridges that join the two opposite banks of the river. Near the it seemed that all the people of Bukit Lawang were in the river to greet us with their laughter, friendly eyes and excited hellos and how are yous. But, they weren't there for us. They were there because it's what they do- Enjoy the life that surrounds them like I did in their jungle home as a guest for the time we shared it together.

Life here hasn't always been so great-

On a sadder note, In 2003 The jungle village of Bukit Lawang was nearly completely destroyed by a flash flood in the rainy season. It was Ramadan, Many of the residents were weak from fasting, the flood happened at nighttime and there was no electricity. In the space of minutes, Massive fallen trees swept by a wall of water came crashing through the night and down river instantly wiping out many of the houses and home stays in the area. At least 300 people died and everyone in the area was affected. Most of the people I met here eventually told me about how they lost close family members. The good news is that this stronghold of humanity has made a slow and steady recovery and certainly thrives today!

In a personal note, ( you don't have to read this) I think that the Jungle people of Bukit Lawang are as important to the essence of humanity with their rich child like laughter, warm friendly hearts, welcoming arms, clever perseverance, honor and dignity as our sky rises, computers and automobiles. I think it would be wise on our part to take note of their example of humanity as they cannot escape the presence of ours.

One last thing. I have a lot more to tell you guys but I'm already late for a fish fry here in lake toba. So, I'll post more about the jungle and my experiences here too.. OMG This place is so cool. Shit, I have to go. wish I could write about it more.. Tomorrow.

Peace, Brian

It seems like it has been forever since I posted anything

So much has happened, I have my journal with me here so I'll share some of it in present tense..

Before I begin

I feel like I left you all on a sour note with that last post from the airport. I apologise if you actually felt how uncomfortable I was sitting there thinking that my most important things were gone forever. I could care less about the clothes, souvenirs and toiletries, really! There's one thing in that bag that I would fly around the world to get back if I could and that's what really worried me. I have a pair of pants that I have worn since day one of travelling. They're beaten and a little dirty but they have sewn on them patches from nearly every cool place I've ever been. Not just the countries, or the cities, if someone sells a patch at a museum, I'll buy it and put it on the pants. I once bought a guys shirt in Togo, Africa because there was a patch on it that said Togo(I was desperate, there weren't any Togo patches to be found!) Anyway, All's well that ends well, I've had the most amazing week in the jungle- please allow me to share with you my experience. while I simultaneously upload photos to facebook.

After my experience at the airport, I caught the first bus (and the last one of the night) to Bukit Lawang where I hoped to explore the jungle there in search of our hairy red cousins. The bus ride to BL is an experience to remember. It's actually not really a bus at all, it was a decrepit, dilapidated, overcrowded minivan that someone hailed off the street for me. That thing felt like it was falling apart, No suspension, vibrating windows, shredded seats, no muffler and all the smells of an Asian summer. Did you know that you can fit 22 people in one of those.. remember, I'm talking about a Mini van! you can fit even more on top of it. I think that at one time we had 25 total on board.Body heat, breast feeding, coughing, chain smoking, farting and crying babies. I tell you about this bus now but you haven't lived until you take a "chicken" bus somewhere. I'm getting ahead of myself but I 'll tell you now that the chicken bus includes all the fore mentioned qualities multiplied by at least one hundred. I saw one drive by today that had about twenty five people on the top and was crowded the same inside! Back to the jungle- I have to write this down.

From the Journal-

I write this from a rock in the middle of a river in the middle of the jungle. I slept under tarp tent and stars last night, close to the earth. Somewhere close to me now in the morning sun Macaques are plotting to invade the privacy I'm enjoying on this perch while I write and sip river water coffee and listen to this magnificent water bubble and roll along.

It turns out that bukit lawang means "Door to the Jungle Hills"! These hills are no small feat to climb!

Yesterday, my jungle guide Firman and I had the greatest time hiking and climbing these very hills I'm enjoying the view of now. I wore vibram shoes for the hike so it was like walking bare foot through the jungle. My feet are sore now but it's worth it to feel that amazingly close to the earth (dave knows what I mean here!) Although my feet are a little sore, it sure beats the blisters and scrapes I've been getting from my Tevas!

The search for Orangutans was a huge success for me. In the morning even before the trek, I spotted a young male walking along the riverbed! Shortly after our hike began, Firman and I spotted another older male Orangutan swinging in the trees. I followed him for quite some time. About an hour later, We found our first mother with child. There's no doubt in my mind now that these animals have some very human qualities. The mother held her child and played with her while they moved effortlessly through the jungle trees. She even cautioned the little one when she came too close to me. Finally, later that day, we found another mother with child. This orangutan was special, they call her "Mena" Firman told me that mena was aggressive towards people but that we shouldn't have any problems so long as we had a few pieces of fruit. After I posed for pictures about 8 feet from her and her child I received the rest of the story. Mena has a very long, very bad history of attacking guides and trekkers alike. I now know that posing for pictures with her was borderline insane- she has bitten more than 50 people in the past and she doesn't just bite! she wrestles and fights and wont quit unless she knows that you're hurt. She doesn't feel pain apparently, sticks only make her more angry and one time... she attacked a guide who had a knife who (as a last resort to save himself from her beating) slashed her face. She's a bad ass! with a bad ass scar too! This day was no absolutely no exception from mena's tyrannical rule of the jungle. We didn't know it at the time but Mean Mena had just sent a guide to the hospital about a half hour before she spotted us in the jungle- she hunts tourists! She did seem to look quite content when I was standing an orangutans arms length from her.. Blood thirsty orange bitch! At lunch in the jungle later, Firman demonstrated how large she can open her mouth by showing me the scars mena gave him two yeas ago when she nearly bit through his knee puncturing his muscle and tendons in the shape of an orangutan mouth from the top and front of his leg to the back side- WOW! He told me also later that most of the guides had been bitten by her at some time and most of them try to avoid her but like I said, she hunts tourists for food! give her some passion fruit and she's as happy as can be. That is, until you run out!

The orangutans I saw in the jungle yesterday were great. Still, I keep thinking that I'm supposed to feel some sort of enlightenment after being so close to them. I don't. It is no doubt to me that we're certainly more closely related to them in the evolutionary chain of things than most other animals but in their faces I don't see peace and enlightenment. It's evident to me that we as humans created those things with our big minds, creative reasoning, will to succeed and the many abilities that we pioneer as the dominant race of this planet. Orangutans have been left behind to live in the trees and pick flees out of each others hair. In them, I see a wild animal, driven by instinct to survive. Smart enough to be greedy, capable of emotion and compelled by the law of the jungle which you may only ever grasp if you enter-

I am still a curiosity to ever closer and surrounding macaques!


Jungle night, River bed camp

Deep green water flows with persistent and gentle force with medium fizz and yawning style across a path carved by centuries of diligence in a bed now barely used but kind and welcoming enough to share it with myself and 5 others last night under starlight next to a campfire. The jungle and mountainous hills watch the water grow and shrink with the rainfall in seasons constantly eroding the shape of the accomodating canyon which holds it all. Life here is abundant, ever present and thriving- Gushing into existence with the river and the light from the sun in so many forms. It swings from the trees, it crawls from holes on hillsides, it hides under rocks, swims in the river, flutters, buzzes or glides overhead and it eats and savors the rain and blossoms in so many colors to rejoice its mere existence and for the simple sake of its being. Perfection in simple and pure form. I cannot help but to feel completely alive and in good company in the belly of this jungle. It did not choose me even though I now feel completely welcome. I sought out her mouth, eyes watching me the night before, green morning rose in my heart and I climbed vines down her throat and hiked hills and shared my sweat with a days muddy trek down trails, up trails around massive, sky scraping mahogany trees, through twine like parasitic root structures. Feet on bald rocks slipping past laughing and taunting monkeys and deep eyed orangutans that carry on with life here with babes in their arms stretching and swinging through nesty trees- their homes. Along the crest of this canyon mad my descent, holding ropes of roots and hands of branches, dropping stories to the river bed and finally to this massive rock in the belly of it all where jungle breeze and morning mist share with me tranquility.

The ups and downs of flying

I'm going to force myself to try to write something about this without letting it stink up the room. As some of you may know I've been in Bali, Indonesia for the last few days (again) and have been using it as a hub to travel to and from some of the most amazing places that I've been to( Flores, Komodo island and the Gilli islands) This time in Bali, I have to say that I was just passing through. I wasn't interested in the The hawkers speaking broken English in Australian accents who sell anything to anybody , the multitudes of kids dominating the streets with beers or surfboards in hand, grabby salesmen, pushy moped rental guys- I wasn't even interested in the food. I went out one night and met a girl who told me stories about her broken heart and how she was suicidal because of it.. What can one say to that? Buzz kill! I tried to share with her positive reasoning and she countered with stories of masochism. I felt sad for her, she was sweet and beautiful and so honestly heartbroken and painfully puzzled that someone would take her precious heart so for granted. It seems that broken hearts are common here because so many foreign men land on these shores with stories that fill these girls hearts and minds with the wildest dreams... most of them lies. Hit and run. (please don't remind me that I have a history of being an insensitive, inconsiderate heart breaker myself- hopefully we live and learn)

No Aceh in the hole!
However.. I've just landed in a place in Medan in Northern Sumatra where Muslim radicals rule! Cool, huh! Here, If you're caught having premarital sex you might be subject to a public caning in front of the mosque! That means foreigners too. Better yet, it's televised. Recently an Italian aid worker in Bandah Aceh was caught in his hotel with his girlfriend from Aceh and given the beating of his life in between scripture readings. I bet the masked punisher also said something like "trust me, it's hurting me as much as it's hurting you"

Regardless, I feel regarded as an infidel at the moment because there is no reason why I should be writing this blog from an airline executive lounge. There is no reason why I should be eating free food and there is no reason a strange man comes to check on me every hour EXCEPT TO TELL ME THAT MY FUCKING LUGGAGE IS STILL MOTHERFUCKING LOST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!HOLY SHIT!

I'm going to keep that line there. But you would not believe the luck I just had. I have to go catch a buss. As I was typing that last line and letting the expression marks flow, said man ran up to me carrying said fucking luggage in hand.. so what if I waited 6 hrs. Phew.. I can't believe it. Can you believe it? Seriously, I avoided typing anything about that until the end here.. Fuck it. Speak of the devil.

I have to race to catch a cab to the bus station to get to the Jungle of Bukit Lawang YES!

P.S Credit where credit is do. They say that everyone in a sinking ship is a religious man. I admit, I prayed.

There is nothing wrong with your television set. Do not attempt to adjust the picture. We are controlling transmission. If we wish to make it louder..

Stay tuned! I'll be back in a few days with exciting stories. You're not going to get much from me in the here and now. I have atm about three weeks of travel to look forward to. Soon to come will be a journey to the rim of atleast one active volcano,The serene views of Lake Toba in Sumatra, Possibly some views our our Orange cousins, the Orangutans in the same area, A quick survey of Jakarta ,the heartbeat of Indonesia also place spurred with civil unrest, a visit to a viewing of a giant Buddha statue and all the unexpected tests and challenges and maybe even the struggles of travel in between. Then, Let's not forget a two day visit to Hong Kong before I fly in to Bend over the fireworks on the 4th of July.

I should also say that, at the moment, I feel a complete peace in my soul. The inescapable sounds of rolling ocean waves and trance like Indonesian music charmed with the friendliest of people in a place where the only machines are hidden generators to run air conditioners, blenders and disco lights that sparkle on sandy roads have all brought me to the most relaxed state of mind. I know that you know the feeling, the one where it's Sunday morning and you don't have to get up to do anything for hours and the temperature is just right and it's so peaceful that you accept the cozy feeling of your comforter and pillows and just enjoy doing nothing but enjoy being without a care in the world. That feeling is priceless. I have to be honest here, I almost never experience that feeling, It's go go go go go- Do something, always or else I feel like shit about myself and wasting time and life. So here and now, I'm enjoying this place and brewing excitement for the next leg of my journey through the amazing place that is Indonesia.

We'll return in a moment to our regularly scheduled program.

I'm trying something new here by uploading a video to this site. It may take forever but lets see if it works. If it does, I hope you are as amazed at how magnificent the Komodo is as I am. The video starts slow because I had to position the camera far enough away from the dragon to be safe. They are wild, they do attack, they are poisonous and they do kill people. The last attack was in February. This massive dragon stopped on the trail to look at the park ranger who was with me, I had my chance and took it. I have no way of editing out the minute or so where the dragon looks frozen on the trail looking at me and the ranger but, if you wait, you'll see him walk right over my camera with the ranger and myself in the background.

So, what else.... I'm at this point in my trip where I've decided to recharge. It's so peaceful here in Gilli, the food is good, my room is clean, I have a hammock on my porch, a big bed, nice shower (built for smaller people because I am a giant here :) My bungalow is surrounded by vines, jungle vegetation and hundreds of wild flowers- this could be the perfect retreat. The people are great here too. They follow a chieftain law here before a government law so some pretty strange things happen here like for one, There are no motorized vehicles except for boats. Instead, taxis (or Taksi) are actually horse drawn carriages- Nice! Marijuana is still not legal here but it's tolerated and everybody local sells it where in the rest of Indonesia trafficking can easily put you in the grave also I don't get this but the pot sellers whisper in the streets but at almost any restaurant or bar you can buy a magic mushroom shake (so if you ever come here and get a side of sauteed mushrooms, ask if they are magic! So, you can imagine that the locals are somewhat Rastafarian islanders. They're also Muslim. There was a party till 430 at rudy's beach pub and disco last night that got pretty wild. The guys who work at y hotel were there late but had to work this morning early. When I saw them at coffee (when I got up)they were looking pretty rough.. one of the said that he needed to go to the mosque!

My plan right now is to sip fruity bevs, study Indonesian, write if it comes to me and soak in the sun. Tough life, I know. But, the next leg of my journey will be to hike an active volcano and hopefully travel to Sumatra to see Lake Toba and Orangutans

Condensed update

Hi guys, I'm currently killing some time in Flores near the island of Komodo. I spent the night on Komodo the night before last and saw an amazing ten dragons! I'm trying to upload the photos to face book as we speak along with the pictures from Bali island. I'm just going to condense some of my journal writing here with a short into to each. Some of My Journal writing is mostly imagery and impressions and I think of it more like a painting. I hope that when you read it you can feel some of what I felt experiencing this amazing place.

The night before at paradise restaurant after sunset-

Somewhere out there in this archipelago in the direction of the sleeping sun is the island of Komodo. There the dragon waits for me. In the morning, I'm boarding some kind of rickety craft, tested by time. I know that it will be comical but i'm doing it anyway with Nick from Sweden my new friend who has been to so many of the same places as me that I swear that we must be related.

Later, after arriving at the island on a four hour boat ride we decided in the heat of the day to visit Komodo village and afterward do our first hike around the island.

In Komodo village, children's laughter fills the air. Hello's echo from young and old. They all want their pictures taken.. Many of the curious touch and rub my skin to feel my tattoos. Fishing boats of many sizes crowd the harbor with lines out tied to anchors. Big eyed children carry komodo dragon carvings and pearl necklaces for cheap but they know how to bargain and first ask for pens and pencils. News of Obama has reached even here. Near the Mosque someone gives me a thumbs up to my president. Houses sit on stilts and children sing and play games in the shade while hiding from the afternoon sun. The smell of drying fish fills the air. Everyone smiles. there is so much life here.

After a jungle hike-

The Jungle is Alive! Wild boars, hairy necks, shrieking and snorting, fattened and careless, they sound like monsters sometimes when challenged by movement-
They are monster food. Timid deer travel in herds and sometimes dangerously alone. Velvet antlers, childrens eyes, shiny nostrils- spies of the jungle. In the distant plains and hilltops, Water buffalo graze sun fried grass. Geckos, blue and green, jumping or falling from trees. Fast like a flash gordon travelling in spurts. Chicken, Jungle chicken, Protected by law- Fruit of the land for the king only, Clack and flap wings on palm frawns and bushes like the dove and quail- just slower and less mobile. Snakes of all colors and types fill the bushy green bushes and trees. Eagles nest at the apex of natural living pillars somewhere and listen like I do to the symphony of ever present and changing jungle sounds. The drum beat of this island is legendary here and constant as it is real. Shaped like a dinosaur, living in a place where fantasy and reality meet fascinations and nightmares. His head is bigger than mine, his mouth seeps so much saliva and poison that it sticks to the ground when he looks up to notice me with eyes that question my position in the food chain in a place where he knows that he is the ultimate evil and can do no wrong. His shoulders arch and rotate prominence between front and hind while he walks only with a purpose- Swaying his massive muscular whip weapon tail. She is rare, she is precious, she is a marvel and an animal jewel to our planet. It is Komodo.

Komodo at night after an amazing day- Sounds of the Jungle at night.

Sounds of Komodo at night, Crickets steadily chirp so much that the night air rings like a quiet car alarm under atomically lit sky light full of stars and stars behind them. Waves in the bay froth in moonlight but it's dark where I sit. Bushes shake, A dragon hisses somewhere like a cobra not far from me. Wild boar shreik when they get too close to each other. They sound like monsters. Deer tred cautiously and light because they are everywhere. Lizards feast on ants and small bugs while arboreal snakes sneak sleakily through trees. The temperature drops to a cool 80 degrees. Park rangers laugh in the distance playing cards. A boat putters by close enough to the beach that I can hear someone singing a love song to the ocean breeze and it's time for bed. Tomorrow, I'll be part of that jungle.

Nick and I were by the way the only two visitors to the island of komodo. It's the slow season and most tourists go to the island of Rincha where the terrain is easier for hiking and it's easy to see dragons because they hang out near the ranger station. Before coming here we both agreed that we had to see dragons at Komodo no matter what it took. After our first amazing day of seeing 6 dragons and one tremendous monster (check the video of him walking over my camera out on Facebook) we took the longest, hardest hike on the island. The ranger said that he only did it twice last yr. I wasn't prepared for what the island had in store for me. Here are my afterthoughts.

The hike-
Sandled feet, one scarred from surgery, screws and metal aching inside- Both feet aching and worn and chafe to flesh like saddles too tight. Legs pushing limits, muscles like chewed cheap bubblegum. Sweat rains from my insides like a broken hearted cloud- The scenery amazes me thoughfrom up here and It pushes me in forward ascent, Climbing, crawling through bushes and on dewy, mossy rocks worn by time and few feet like mine past every shade of jungle, plains, hilltop grass, palms (some not surviving the heat so well like me), Tree and earth at 55 degrees to the peak. I should be in better shape but I'm not yet. My heart thumps hard in my chest and neck, I can feel my pulse finding a rhythm with my gasping breath and feet on rubber on changing ground. The sun rises to prominence, taking aim at me like a battleship in space shooting laser beams at my forehead and shoulders. Birds laugh. All the other animals take shelter in the shade. I spot a Komodo under green umbrella at distant hillside disinterested in my foggy gaze. I drink hot water from my pack and hide too, watching him and recharging my soul and will. The peak is nearer now. The thought is conception for my rebirth. Only one more kilometer to go. Few bushes survive here, fewer trees manage the heat. The surface I hike eases to burnt , yellow grass and slippery pebbles. My legs have no more bushes to fight. My body slicker now, skin coated with days of beer and water and pollen. I am tarred and feathered from every plant and flower. Arms and legs like bees feet. My head buzzes. Something like poison drips into my eye from my forehead. I move, still pushing and climbing. An encouraging breeze calls me closer to the top where in moments I will remember the reason of my origin. Moments pass and I pause, breathless, golden skin now shining in the sun- eyes wide open, heart filled with the passion of a thousand loves. Hair on my arms and the back of my neck stand erect pointing at the light of my spotlight. The Terrain of three hours climb looks up at me now peacefully. The breeze continues in full panorama. Smaller mountains hold the water below like an offering bowl to their make and those like myself who have come to visit him. Every bush, every tree, every patch of jungle, every rock, hillside and animal hiding in the terrain of this life filled place is part of the most beautiful painting that took millions of years to create. I'm thank full for the life my parents gave me and what I've done with it and am humbled in the presence of such wondrous beauty.

Wandering the island of Bali

Beachside waves of humanity cruzing by my eyes at moped speed. Signs of commerce streak like lines in the road. a golden old man sits at a corner i'm stopped at for a moment. Dopplering horns, bells, voices and whistles echo in my ears. I just passed a market where people buy their food from tables on dirt and concrete. It's the merchandise that moves with services here though. Tourists, tourists, tourists paid for this paved well beaten track. Batik, Silver jewelry, masks and incense- Massages and spa's for facials and pedicures and pleasures. Wood carvings, stone sculptures, paintings with the national geographic girl with the eyes next to stacks of other paintings rest in the shade. But there's more that this in the hustle. I'll tell you my wonderlust. . It's Temples crowning corners of every road with people who seriously pray at them. It's White sand beaches stretching for miles with children playing. It's that strange hypnotic music that seems to play everywhere (maybe it's only in my head) It's the food! It's Monkeys tugging at your pockets when you walk in the jungle that WILL bite you if you let them get too close. It's the Jungle itself. It's crusty Leather bodied mangy dogs that you don't want to touch your skin. It's Hawkers working their best Aussie accent to impress me because they don't know that I'm a Yank. It's the way that everybody wants to stop me to look at my tattoos and sometimes take pictures with me. It's this road that plays like a movie changing titles at every corner or street light even if were driving on the wrong side of the road. It's a parade of weaving mopeds down closed pedestrian paths. It's rice field after rice field and mosques and churches and the little Hindu offerings that people burn outside their shops every morning. IT's the stranger animals that I've never seen before. It's the smoke from grilled ocean grouper mixing with an ocean breeze. It's what I saw in Bali Today!

I took some really cool pictures today of a massive fruit bat(that I held- they call it a flying fox), a "turtle sanctuary", some temples, an awesome sunset, Sneaky little Monkeys and their newborns (never ever trust a monkey!) and some other random stuff. I didn't cross any major cultural lines today and was pretty much the model tourist with the camera. I'm flying to Flores tomorrow which will be a jumping off point for the island of Komoto, I hope to have some good trekking time there to play commando photo (my favorite game) and to find the komoto dragon. Hope to have the pictures up soon. Some of these I really enjoyed working on.

Post whoring cobra blood drinkin horse meat eating..

Fucker!

I have to say that writing this blog offers a refreshing escape from the 90 degree humid weather here. Forget the sauna, I duck into shops and internet cafe's to stay alive. This is a living sauna. I feel sticky!

It's late afternoon here now and have gathered my thoughts. This morning I probably wasn't so positive about Kuta and even said something about it being like an Aussie Cancun. It's not really. I bucked up and hiked around the city for a little while and changed my mind. Sure, there are hawkers and cheap merchandise stalls every ten feet and people who want something from you every where you look on the surface but the color of indonesia changes once you adjust your eyes and look a little deeper- Like water. I'm not really a buyer. I have everything I need and want inside of me and everything else isn't hard to find.. We know that you can't take merchandise with you into death but you might be able to take memories. That's really what I'm shopping for.

There's an amazing culture here aside from historical head hunts, natural disaster, political instability, guerilla warfare, disease, poor sanitation and kidnapping. (mom, you know I'm kidding right?- for everybody else I'm pretty serious)

I'm hoping to learn what makes these people tick. There are so many islands here, so many different faces, so many interests, so much raw and personal beauty, There's so much culture! I want to experience it and in the future I hope to describe it better than I'm doing right now because I'm a little buzzed on Cobra blood and a little vodka.

I'm going to keep this quick though because I have to meet some friends soon and am just killing time. Today I had the most awesome experience that some of you in your right minds will nodoubtedly be offended or disgusted by and if you're a girl, you might never even think about kissing me.

I drank fresh Cobra blood. Not straight from the neck, in a tea cup mixed with gallbladder juices.
I feel a little bad because the Cobra died in front of me and his blood was in my belly in less than 5 but I don't regret it. Not sure I'll do it again. It tasted a little like nothing I ever tasted before but the aftertaste was something like rotten licorice. (if licorice could rot)

Afterwards with my curiosity encouraged, I ate some horse meat kabobs.. (Sorry Karen, It's a local fave)

Tomorrow is going to be a day of pictures and exploration via motorbike and my pal Abdul Harris.

Most of you are on Facebook and can see the rest of the photo's there

Breakfast thoughts

I've arrived in what seems to be Australian Cancun. I'm going to hang for one night here and roll down the road to Ubud which is supposed to be a little more "natural". Still, Living down that Cancun first impression is going to be a tough one. I'll keep you posted. I wrote a little poem at breakfast that I'll share with you.

Mind soup of mixed flavors in my eyes bowl.
I can never say that I've seen it all
and never will.
This infinite appetite will never be satisfied.
I know that I'll never be full.
The road ahead will only Bend
Like The cultures of tastes mixing at borders
lost on a map somewhere,
I digest.

I had to stop there before sounding too cliche.

Here's a link to some really cool poetry that my friend Peter Munro wrote. He spent some time with me and the crew of the Longliner I work on in the bering sea as a research scientist. I hope you guys enjoy.

http://www.bpj.org/index/bpj_current.html This is the link to the current issue of the Beloit poetry journal. Scroll down to Peter Munro and read "Bleeding Cod" first. It's my favorite.

On My way to Denpasar

Hello, hello-

I'ts the morning of my final day in Singapore and before I leave for Bali and the adventure awaiting me in Indonesia I'd just like to share some information about this place.

Yesterday, as you know, was a thoughtful day for me. I spent a large part of it in the museum of asian civilisations, learning more about the history of the region. I oftentimes find myself fascinated with origin of cultures and social evolution of man. The museum was a treat! It so interesting and wild to see a map of trade routes and influence that other nations have on eachother over time. For example, Cambodia for the longest time was on a trade route between india and china hence its former name indochine. You can go right next door in any direction and nobody looks like the cambodians because they mixed with the indians they traded with for so long. Angkor Wat was actually inspired by Indian religious beliefs. The Indians historically have had a huge roll in developing and changing the world. Buddhism ofcourse comes from there and has spread all over the world.. perhaps most importantly to china. Here's a disclaimer, I'm no expert and I just write this stuff off the top of my head. But here's the coolest thing that I learned yesterday. Singapore was founded by a man named Sir Stamford Raffles in sometime around 1819 who was looking for a port that could serve the needs of ships traveling from east to west and vise versa. Only a few natives lived in the area (starting to sound familiar) and after development, the place became a huge success. Over time, waves of people migrated there from india, china and europe to clear jungles and build a town, leaving their families and lives home for a new one. This is the asian story of America on a much smaller scale. Ofcourse singapore has a much different and scattered history. They've only had true independance since 1959 but the story is there. But Wow!

That's it.. Morning thoughts with Brian- I'm leaving on a Jet plane.. Air France .. Ugh!



Just Kidding!

Misplaced soul high fives the grim reaper

First, I uploaded a few pics to previous posts so if you look back a little you can see them.

Todayhas been a mix of days. This morning I wasn't feeling so smooth here are some direct thoughts from my journal.

This mornings sun brings an attack on the security of my nationalism. I am the invading force, I am the outsider, I am not prepared, I'm an alien. I felt entitled, now I feel insecure with my bright tattoos, cargo shorts, messy hair, Tshirt with the beer logo, sunglasses and sandles. My "original" Casio watch that all the philipinos liked doesn't even confort my wrist like it did last week. The world is happening here in a great burst of clean cut, well groomed, Armani suit wearing, D and G dress wearing, brief case flaunting, hustling humanity. These people hold their heads so high and proud because they should. They're doing things that our human race will look back on and be proud of some day, They should because if they were gods youngest son he would be smiling at them right now. I cannot compare. The backpackers at my hostel in "little india" are quieter than usual. All white, all the same, completely out of place- A little lost and inherently confused. High rise buildings frame a metropolitain poertrait of the city where vacant space permits while the newest structures neighbor the heavens and crowd the clouds changing perspectives and the horizon. The skyline grows in all directions. This isn't happening in my country. The shoreline of the Singapore river flourishes like a well kept garden with colorful optical entertainment like clubs, discos, tapas bars, pavillions, wave like architecture, colorful stadium seating for events, a giant ferris wheel, national monuments and lush greenery. I heard music at a club last night from outside but my name wasn't on the guest list and was refused entry- Atleast the customs ninjas at the airport allowed me to pass after a thermal scanning and confirmation that I could be located if needed be my visa revoked for N1H1. There are no dive bars here with confotable souls content with drinking their ambition to work away, there are no drug addicts in the streets (they're all dead or if lucky in prison) There isn't even litter. All of that belongs outside of the hive. I'm not even sure what they do with the homeless here but the lowest class of people I've seen so far were cleaning the streets in nice clean uniforms.

Bla bla bla bla .. That's how I felt this morning, I feel great now. It's funny how things can happen that will immediately change your attitude.. This was HUGE!

So, I left starbucks- (shut up, I hate starbucks) and decided to wander around the city looking for pictures. Wander being the key word, I came to an intersection , looked around, left, right, forward, who cares- it's a huge city. highrises everywhere. Fuck it, I though. Straight! I crossed the street stopped at the other side and though hmmm, maybe left. first I'll change my camera lense, I'm going to need wide angle. I paused to hear the word NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Just then, where I figure I could have been if I had continued to walk, a huge glass window fell from 15 stories above and on to the sidewalk (frame and all) sounding so loud you would have though a grenade had gone off. Glass was everywhere. My attitude changed immediately. It's good to be alive folks! Besides when was I ever not just a little out of place.. I forgot this morning that I live. I live in part for that challenge.

No title

Hey there guys, I landed in Singapore, the future of south east asia! I was trying to figure out how to explain this city on the flight over here and the best I can come up with is that if New York, and Hong Kong had a baby it would be called Singapore. It's one of the busiest ports in the world and the "hub" of south east asia, the people here make alot of $$, they're educated, kind, the streets are imaculately well kept and the archetecture is captivating. It's not cheap here though and I'm glad to have only 2 days here because I've visited before. Still, It's like seeing an old friend.

Not much else to say except that I miss the philipines. What an amazing place! I have never felt more welcome anywhere in the world. Period! I will return.

There's no such thing as "all good"

There are so many things I could write about. Truth is that I'm cashed. I've been crabbly ever since 5am when I woke up to something like gun shots going off outside my window and a small man lying in his blood wailing in pain. I think he was only shot in the leg. Someone else said that guys were hitting him and throwing something like m 80's at him. My crusty eyes looked down the street to see a police man standing there watching him. People here have a way of taking justice into their own hands.. for better or worse. Who knows how or why, if it was a gun or firecrackers, I though about it all day. Nobody here in this country has even given me a dirty look. I am not the naive tourist. I know danger could be around any corner any time.. even outside my window. I just haven't seen it here until this morning.

I went to a cemetary later in the morning to think near china town. The Chinopino's (like it? I just made up that word!) that live here bury their dead in coffins above ground in mostly elaborat marble houses which require a minimum of 25 yr rental fees. Some spaces are bought permanently but most must be repaid until the dead are forgotten. The death arrangements and amenities vary like the stuctures. One things for sure though, they test the theory that you can't take it with you. Many have all their favorite posessions burried with them. But, there's more to it- The marble death houses are complete with toilets, kitchens, decorations and furniture- some even have chandeliers, Many have several levels. I'd be just a little misleading if I gave you the impression that the houses were strictly for the dead, I saw two houses that actually had living occupants alongside of the dead.. Attatchment issues? In any sense, connection with the dead must be some sign of a strong community. Every sunday the living relatives gather in the marboleums (ha, I made that one up too.. I'm on a roll)to celebrate life among other things.. My guide "Eddy" told me that some relatives are even guilty of drinking beer and singing kareoke around the dead when the party gets really going. He should know, he was born in that cemetary 61 years ago and also told me that someday soon , he will probably die there too.

Cheers, Tomorrow I'm going to sing sing singapore!

Ps thankyou guys for the emails and facebook messages about my pictures and stories. It makes me feel good that you're enjoying this journey along with me.

Brian