Well Guys, I am wunderlusterly awestruck once again. Just when I thought it was all over, here in the magnificent city of Hong Kong I find my self in huge amazement.
I initially wrote all about it yesterday with my first impressions of this incredible city. The post failed to launch for better or worse I'll sum up my experience before sharing with you my impressions from today.
When I first arrived in Hong Kong I felt like I had landed on an Alien planet inhabited by strange looking lightly tanned slim eyed lanky people who moved past me as if I was a ghost. Never making eye contact, unimpressed by my presence and moving with certain purpose through a city of amazing apparent enormity. You would not believe how big this city feels- Even though it's not really that large! Massive buildings cover every inch of coastline and every square of existence here where people Carry on with their everyday lives and business. In between the buildings are other buildings and beneath those fortress like towering skyscrapers is an efficient underground moving people even faster to where they want to go. Corporate headquarters, epicenters of commerce and trade, shopping mall after shopping mall, restaurants of every taste, housing complexes, saunas, tea houses and even parks line the interior and exterior alike along brightly colored streets sometimes decorated with alleyways of markets, food stalls, eastern medicine shops and arcades of sorts. After second observation, I realized that I was the ignorant alien here and felt more so in my place once again as a wide eyed explorer knowing that I had much to learn about this rich and prosperous city. My words cannot express the how big this city feels while still being so compact. As far as feeling like a ghost, I haven't shaken that feeling quite yet and kind of feel comfortable in a sense with that identity. Nobody seems to mind that I stop in awe with my camera at any moment. They're care full not to touch, bump or disturb my space while they move hurriedly past with whatever purpose they serve. Which could be due to the measure of sanitation I've also witnessed in this place. Never before have I witnessed such extreem levels of Germaphobia. There are signs everywhere assuring residents and visitors alike that each area has been sanitized on a two hour schedule. Free ninja masks are passed out at the airport and every service person wears them.. from McDonald's to Starbucks to banks, even the chefs in sushi restaurants wear them while they work! I passed a random temperature scan in the city just an hour ago.. for my personal safety of course.
Hey whitey round eye! Check this out!
Today, I woke up in my luxury hotel (which overlooks the city) courtesy of my older brother Jer and his awesome wife Sallie who offered me the family employee discount rate through her work and walked over to the museum of Hong Kong history where revelation once again found me. I was shocked to learn how Hong Kong was originally colonised by the British and why. Sorry Brits, here comes a huge skeleton from your closet.
After the Dark ages in Europe the English were interested in trade with China. the Portuguese had already opened the market doors and paved the way. the Chinese, However, weren't as interested in what the English had to trade and only allowed them access to two cities under a strict set of rules and guidelines that the English weren't quite fond of. The emperor at the time even flat out made a statement to the British telling them that they were proud of and enjoyed their way of life and had little use for western wares. Frustrated yet determined, the British hatched a devious plan.. get the Chinese hooked on Opium and they'll sell anything including their souls to the crown. So, the British (already manufacturing Tar in India) Began to import Opium to china by the ton. Trade relations changed immediately. they found it quite easy to get the things they wanted from people now only interested in getting their next big fix. When the Emperor of mainland china realized what was happening he seized all the opium to be found and boarded British ship to relieve them of their toxic cargo then piled it up into huge ponds, mixed it with lime while it dissolved and washed it back into the ocean. He ordered that anyone caught distributing Opium to Hong Kong or China would be put to death. Trade stopped immediately. That is Until the British Waged war. the Chinese had an estimated 100,000 troops against the British 20,000 but stood no chance against ships armed with a hundred cannons or more, against battle tested generals using modern warfare tactics and the matter was easily settled. The British assumed control and Opium manufacture, sale and trade resumed. This all happened in the 1830's and 1840's in case you were wondering!
the history of Hing Kong gets worse. In world war two, the Japanese seized Hong Kong and the British military fled making way for almost four years of what has come to be known as the Darkest period in its history. Residents were tortured or executed for not conforming to Japanese rule and people starved as rations were small and inadequate. On the Bright side when The United States of America dropped the bomb august 1945 the world stopped and Japan signed an unconditional surrender. Unconditional. Meaning that they had to evacuate Hong Kong and relinquish control back to our Opium dealing friends from across the pond.. Long live the queen. Things are quite different now as you might guess. The royal crown has surrendered control of Hong Kong which has been reunified with China. The city has been a boom town ever since mixing western technology with eastern ways, hong Kong is a the business center of Asia..or at least it seems like it to me!
I have some awesome pictures that I hope will illustrate how magnificent this city is but I also have taken enough video this trip to make a compilation when I get home that I'm looking forward to. I'll post the pictures on the 5th.
I have to roll friends, I'll be seeing a few of you soon!
Friday, July 3, 2009
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Tick Tock in Kuta-After Bromo, Prambanan and Borobodur
Holly wowness friends and peekers. I'm nearing the end of an epic journey. If you enjoyed this blog, you should know that I'm not done yet. and I'll probably continue to post at this site for my future travels. Still, I have one last day in Indonesia and 3 days, 2 nights in Hong Kong. I'm thinking that for my next trip- If I have a few months available, I'm going to India and if I only have a month, I want to do Viet Nam and Laos.. But If you're like me, I'm certainly open to suggestions. Here's what I've been up to the last week or so.
Shit, It seems like I have been travelling hard these last few days! Since leaving Toba busing and flying all that day then arriving in Jakarta only to realize that I couldn't hang in the contrast of my previous tranquil surroundings vs the most amazingly chaotic city i've been in then busing again after finding out that the train had been oversold and that my ticket wasn't valid and busing it 15 hrs to Jogjakarta, Hitting Jogja hard and visit temples on tours, drinking in alleyways at 3 am the night before with new friends and then busing it to Bromo all the next day to wake up again for another sunrise tour of some of the most magnificent scenery I've ever witnessed then immediately busing it again all day to catch a ferry to Denpasar, Bali then taking a cab with some new friends to Kuta where I walked the streets at night with my backpack in search of accommodation. Success. (that's alot of "ands"I'm here now road weary yet somehow supercharged and excited to see Hong Kong. Still, buses can give you an unparalleled sense of filth that is in so many ways dehumanising. I think a long, very long shower followed by a massage is going to be my remedy! Cha ching!
Indonesia, you have been so kind, welcoming and good to me. You've opened my eyes to appreciate your beauty and diverse culture. Thank you for sharing with me The shores of Bali, The monstrous Komodo Dragon, the intriguing nature of the orangutan, the peace and tranquility of Toba, the sand and serenity of Gilly islands, the mayhem of Jakarta, the temples of Jogjakarta, the magnificent sights and scenery of Bromo and The heart of the jungle. I could go on and on. Terima Akasi!
I'm uploading some photos to facebook, here's a few here to give you a taste of what's over there. You should also know that I can't tell the quality of my pictures at the moment the screen I'm using has a double view and is quite blurry. I hope that I'm uploading the good ones. Either way, I have only uploaded a fraction of my favorite pictures to facebook. I have hundreds to go through when I get home in a few days and look forward to sharing them with you after I crop them and possibly adjust the levels.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Hello Guys. I couldn't hang in the big city of Jakarta. You would not believe how big it is and how many people are there. For example, there's one night club that opens on Thursday and closes on Monday morning. It holds a meager 4000 people! Alcohol is also not the escape of chioce.. Strange, I know, in a country that happily announces on every flight that drug trafficking is a crime punishable by death. P.S. Have a nice day!
Jogjakarta is a different place all together. Still quite large in size, Jogja is ruled by a Sultan. Although the people here are primarily Muslim, There's a massive and mostly abandoned Buddha statue and temple here and a Hindu Temple of which I'm also going to visit tomorrow.
Today, I've been wandering around the little city villages of Sosrowijayan. There's three main areas, Gang one two and three which are mostly little walkways and crawlspaces that you have to be Indonesian to get through. They're each separated by walls. For good reason too, Gang three is where the prostitutes hang out. Gang1 and two are more or less hotels(I use that word loosely here) shops of sorts and restaurants. The people here are very friendly and kind. I have to wake up early to catch the sunrise over the Buddha statue but it shouldn't be a problem because my room is feet away from the mosque and here they start praying at 430 am with a loud song hailed over amplified speakers that lets the world know that everybody should praise Allah.
I'm killing some time here surfing the net and chillin because all my action will be tomorrow and have little else to do. I'm uploading a video of one of the orangutans I saw in Bukit lawang because It's the coolest thing to watch them walk and you should see it for yourself. This one is the one I was photographing from the river who decided that the rock I was on looked like a good place to sit-Sending me into the water with my friend. Also I'm uploading a video of my view at lake Toba.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Jungle Tigers
I have to say something about this because it's been eating away at me for quite some time. You may be as surprised to hear this as I have witnessed it for the whole of the time I've been in indonesia... Remember this though when you read a post like this one from me- the last thing I want to be is a preacher- I loathe them on most occasions because I believe that we should be smart enough to try to figure out the best path to our own identity and subsequent goodness. What I would like to be is an observer of life that can share it with friends from my perspective. Sometimes I'm ignorant, sometimes completely naive, sometimes I'm even offensive. But, Hopefully I can keep a measure of humility, a strong adventurous and optimistic spirit and an eagerness to learn about and share the beauty of human life that surrounds us even if I cannot help but to share our struggles, challenges and defects- It's is my solid belief that we learn the most from those.
So, here's what I have to say.
Seriously, it's not so uncommon to see beautiful young south east asian women under the arms of fat old white men far from their prime. The sight is usually disturbing to me. Many men come here to find a wife to live with, love and cherish for the rest of their life, have children with and adore. On the flip side, and the reason that I'm often disturbed by their presence is the fact that sexual tourism thrives in south east asia. The women here are so eager to find a loving western partner that the end up with so many men who essentially treat them as prostitutes. See, marraige here isn't always initially about love. Arrainged marraiges are common and primarily, a marraige is an aggreement between two people to take care of eachothers needs and to be good parents to their children..Men are providers and the women are the regulators. Love, hopefully comes in the package. Indonesia is a different than much of the rest of the surrounding areas. Outside of the Jakarta and Bali, Women are etremly oldfashined and shy. The interest in western men is certainly strong but they are reserved, proper and dignified. Not to say that every available girl doesn't let you know that she's interested, she just wont give her heart or body away so easily or wrecklessly- Her family, friends and Village are all watching. In Toba, I did meet a girl that I was very attracted to. She was beautiful, charming and sweet. She showed me around the town, introduced me to all her friends and taught me about her culture. We had drinks together and danced the night away. For a moment there, I dreamed of taking her away with me and giving her the life of a princess, she was so sweet (regardless of the fact that her ancestors ate humans) I didn't though, and the extent of our physical relationship never even succeeded a goodbye kiss that I will remember forever. It would be so easy to be the kind of guy who indulges in the ease of the moment with these willing, beautiful, younger girls.. but, I know from unfortunate experience that when you break a womans heart because you're a traveller and simply have to listen to the call of the road and can't take her with you that it stays with you and you're an asshole if if you can feel good about yourself and live with it. So for me, atleast, my rule is fun.
After that preface, Here's what might shock you.
TOURIST WOMEN HERE ARE THE BIGGEST SEXUAL TOURISTS I"VE MET! The indonesian girls are reserved and usually keep to themselfes (remember like I said..outside of the big cities) But anything goes for the guys! Keep in mind ladies that the men here also have feelings, they also dream of making a new life somewhere new and exciting and hope to live in relative riches and enjoy the western world. The closer I got to the jungle or even off the beaten path, the more women I saw with indonesian boyfriends, the more stories I heard from the locals about how western girls are crazy with jungle fever. It seemed that every local guy had atleast one tale of the girl who was here for a week, fucked his brains out and left him for dead, a shell of a man.
My last night in Toba, I danced with all my new friends. We celebrated, laughed and drank Arak, vodkas and beer. Beneath our laughter a growing sadness loomed and grew inside of me. It wouldn't be long and I would leave he girl that I had become so fond of without even kissing. (Sucker alert, I know) At one point in the night, as the party was dying down, I found myself alone with my thoughts. A young Indonesian Butok man walked by me and said casually "You look lonely brother, I'm lonely too!" and walked by. After I said my goodnights and goodbyes I walked down the road towards the Reggae hotel where I was staying and the same man ran from the bar saying "Brother, I'll give you a ride on my motorbike, Wait. I have to get out of here too" I aggreed, Bottle of Vodka in one hand, Bottle of water in the other. A beautiful Finnish girl chased him out of the bar. He didn't have to tell me what he was feeling. I'd seen them around town and all that night playing like young lovers. It was also her last night in his town and he knew as well that their relation ship was over. Infront of me stood a broken hearted man in too much pain to even be with the girl that he'd fell in love with because she would leave him and probably never see him again. A tear welled in his eye as he looked at the dusty street in his little town far from the places where movies are made, far from places where families don't share houses, far from places where there's reliable clean water, flushing toilets and efficient sewage systems. She laughingly begged him not to leave because she needed one more night with him. I handed him the bottle of vodka, patted him on the shoulder and walked home. So, is it better to have loved and lost rather than never to have loved at all? I'll say for me atleast that it depends on your intentions.
So, here's what I have to say.
Seriously, it's not so uncommon to see beautiful young south east asian women under the arms of fat old white men far from their prime. The sight is usually disturbing to me. Many men come here to find a wife to live with, love and cherish for the rest of their life, have children with and adore. On the flip side, and the reason that I'm often disturbed by their presence is the fact that sexual tourism thrives in south east asia. The women here are so eager to find a loving western partner that the end up with so many men who essentially treat them as prostitutes. See, marraige here isn't always initially about love. Arrainged marraiges are common and primarily, a marraige is an aggreement between two people to take care of eachothers needs and to be good parents to their children..Men are providers and the women are the regulators. Love, hopefully comes in the package. Indonesia is a different than much of the rest of the surrounding areas. Outside of the Jakarta and Bali, Women are etremly oldfashined and shy. The interest in western men is certainly strong but they are reserved, proper and dignified. Not to say that every available girl doesn't let you know that she's interested, she just wont give her heart or body away so easily or wrecklessly- Her family, friends and Village are all watching. In Toba, I did meet a girl that I was very attracted to. She was beautiful, charming and sweet. She showed me around the town, introduced me to all her friends and taught me about her culture. We had drinks together and danced the night away. For a moment there, I dreamed of taking her away with me and giving her the life of a princess, she was so sweet (regardless of the fact that her ancestors ate humans) I didn't though, and the extent of our physical relationship never even succeeded a goodbye kiss that I will remember forever. It would be so easy to be the kind of guy who indulges in the ease of the moment with these willing, beautiful, younger girls.. but, I know from unfortunate experience that when you break a womans heart because you're a traveller and simply have to listen to the call of the road and can't take her with you that it stays with you and you're an asshole if if you can feel good about yourself and live with it. So for me, atleast, my rule is fun.
After that preface, Here's what might shock you.
TOURIST WOMEN HERE ARE THE BIGGEST SEXUAL TOURISTS I"VE MET! The indonesian girls are reserved and usually keep to themselfes (remember like I said..outside of the big cities) But anything goes for the guys! Keep in mind ladies that the men here also have feelings, they also dream of making a new life somewhere new and exciting and hope to live in relative riches and enjoy the western world. The closer I got to the jungle or even off the beaten path, the more women I saw with indonesian boyfriends, the more stories I heard from the locals about how western girls are crazy with jungle fever. It seemed that every local guy had atleast one tale of the girl who was here for a week, fucked his brains out and left him for dead, a shell of a man.
My last night in Toba, I danced with all my new friends. We celebrated, laughed and drank Arak, vodkas and beer. Beneath our laughter a growing sadness loomed and grew inside of me. It wouldn't be long and I would leave he girl that I had become so fond of without even kissing. (Sucker alert, I know) At one point in the night, as the party was dying down, I found myself alone with my thoughts. A young Indonesian Butok man walked by me and said casually "You look lonely brother, I'm lonely too!" and walked by. After I said my goodnights and goodbyes I walked down the road towards the Reggae hotel where I was staying and the same man ran from the bar saying "Brother, I'll give you a ride on my motorbike, Wait. I have to get out of here too" I aggreed, Bottle of Vodka in one hand, Bottle of water in the other. A beautiful Finnish girl chased him out of the bar. He didn't have to tell me what he was feeling. I'd seen them around town and all that night playing like young lovers. It was also her last night in his town and he knew as well that their relation ship was over. Infront of me stood a broken hearted man in too much pain to even be with the girl that he'd fell in love with because she would leave him and probably never see him again. A tear welled in his eye as he looked at the dusty street in his little town far from the places where movies are made, far from places where families don't share houses, far from places where there's reliable clean water, flushing toilets and efficient sewage systems. She laughingly begged him not to leave because she needed one more night with him. I handed him the bottle of vodka, patted him on the shoulder and walked home. So, is it better to have loved and lost rather than never to have loved at all? I'll say for me atleast that it depends on your intentions.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
About Toba
Lastly, I have nothing to do today but meet some people later on.
I've arrived at Lake Toba. This is a really mellow place. I'm not sure how long I'm going to stay here because the end of my journey is approaching at light speed. In contrast to the people North of here, The Butok people of the Toba area are christian. It's a good thing too! Not even two hundred years ago they were eating their enemies and criminals. Ruins of that society and recorded history remains. Yesterday, I visited the old village where criminals were tried and beheaded before being eaten. Erie! An interesting note- before being killed and eaten, the dinner guests were tortured and marinaded with onion, lime, salt and garlic.
I have to run, It is actually time for lunch.
Mom, wouldn't it be strange if I fell in love with a girl who's ancestors were cannibals? I met one last night! She can hula hoop, dance to hip hop and carry a beer on her head all at the same time!
I've arrived at Lake Toba. This is a really mellow place. I'm not sure how long I'm going to stay here because the end of my journey is approaching at light speed. In contrast to the people North of here, The Butok people of the Toba area are christian. It's a good thing too! Not even two hundred years ago they were eating their enemies and criminals. Ruins of that society and recorded history remains. Yesterday, I visited the old village where criminals were tried and beheaded before being eaten. Erie! An interesting note- before being killed and eaten, the dinner guests were tortured and marinaded with onion, lime, salt and garlic.
I have to run, It is actually time for lunch.
Mom, wouldn't it be strange if I fell in love with a girl who's ancestors were cannibals? I met one last night! She can hula hoop, dance to hip hop and carry a beer on her head all at the same time!
More from the and about the Jungle of Bukit Lawang and the people
After my last journal entry from writing on the middle of a rock in the jungle river we had a little surprise. Our guide got word from another guide up river that an Orangutan and her little friend (not child) were walking towards us on the river bed. I grabbed my camera and headed that way with a few others. We walked about 10 minutes and easily spotted the two. The lighting wasn't bad their red hair contrasted the riverbed nicely and the two didn't mind me getting too close from the river..see pictures at FB. At one point while I was taking pictures from a rocky outpost, the orangutan decided that it wanted to sit where I was and sent me into the river chest deep with my camera and a friend- Awesome! That morning was one of the best I've ever had. Waking up early enough to appreciate all the sounds and sights of my surroundings, tired legs, sore feet, interaction with orangutans. I ate a jungle fruit breakfast (passion fruit is so amazing), drank clean river water Sumatran coffee and later enjoyed the pure existence of this place soaking and bathing in the river. Water itself has never felt so much like such pure life to me.
Just so you know- I mentioned that there were two Orangutans here on the river, An older female and her younger friend. I say friend because I found out later from Firman that the younger ones mother was killed by another Orangutan in something like a territorial dispute. The child escaped. Lost and lonely, in need of a mother, the older female I saw with him took the youngster as her own. Although the younger one is now 6 or seven years old, the two are mostly still inseperable. I heard another story that's also quite sad that I'll share it with you here aswell. The jungle is ,of course, no easy place to survive. The first few years of an Orangutans life are crucial to it's survival. Occasionally an infant dies. When this happens, it's not unusual to find the mother carying the child with her on her back even weeks later as the body stinks and decays. It pauses sometimes to shake it or try to feed it, care for it or just try to wake it up. On My trek, I was informed that one such Orangutan is in that jungle now. I'm greatfull that I did not see her. It would have broke my heart.
After a second breakfast of pineapple and passion fruit and maybe just a little relaxing and sandcastle making with two friends I made from Holland, we had lunch and packed up our things for a float down the jungle river through mild rapids. All the while laughing hard at our own jokes and antics. We floated with the rolling water past jungle children playing, mothers bathing in the river, palm roofed huts scattered and all the splendor of the jungle canyon. Trees draped the hillsides with lush shades of green, flowers blossomed in every direction people smiled and waved every time we passed them- anxious to practice their English. After a short while, seeing houses and people became more frequent and we approached the village of Bukit lawang and the first of three foot bridges that join the two opposite banks of the river. Near the it seemed that all the people of Bukit Lawang were in the river to greet us with their laughter, friendly eyes and excited hellos and how are yous. But, they weren't there for us. They were there because it's what they do- Enjoy the life that surrounds them like I did in their jungle home as a guest for the time we shared it together.
Life here hasn't always been so great-
On a sadder note, In 2003 The jungle village of Bukit Lawang was nearly completely destroyed by a flash flood in the rainy season. It was Ramadan, Many of the residents were weak from fasting, the flood happened at nighttime and there was no electricity. In the space of minutes, Massive fallen trees swept by a wall of water came crashing through the night and down river instantly wiping out many of the houses and home stays in the area. At least 300 people died and everyone in the area was affected. Most of the people I met here eventually told me about how they lost close family members. The good news is that this stronghold of humanity has made a slow and steady recovery and certainly thrives today!
In a personal note, ( you don't have to read this) I think that the Jungle people of Bukit Lawang are as important to the essence of humanity with their rich child like laughter, warm friendly hearts, welcoming arms, clever perseverance, honor and dignity as our sky rises, computers and automobiles. I think it would be wise on our part to take note of their example of humanity as they cannot escape the presence of ours.
Just so you know- I mentioned that there were two Orangutans here on the river, An older female and her younger friend. I say friend because I found out later from Firman that the younger ones mother was killed by another Orangutan in something like a territorial dispute. The child escaped. Lost and lonely, in need of a mother, the older female I saw with him took the youngster as her own. Although the younger one is now 6 or seven years old, the two are mostly still inseperable. I heard another story that's also quite sad that I'll share it with you here aswell. The jungle is ,of course, no easy place to survive. The first few years of an Orangutans life are crucial to it's survival. Occasionally an infant dies. When this happens, it's not unusual to find the mother carying the child with her on her back even weeks later as the body stinks and decays. It pauses sometimes to shake it or try to feed it, care for it or just try to wake it up. On My trek, I was informed that one such Orangutan is in that jungle now. I'm greatfull that I did not see her. It would have broke my heart.
After a second breakfast of pineapple and passion fruit and maybe just a little relaxing and sandcastle making with two friends I made from Holland, we had lunch and packed up our things for a float down the jungle river through mild rapids. All the while laughing hard at our own jokes and antics. We floated with the rolling water past jungle children playing, mothers bathing in the river, palm roofed huts scattered and all the splendor of the jungle canyon. Trees draped the hillsides with lush shades of green, flowers blossomed in every direction people smiled and waved every time we passed them- anxious to practice their English. After a short while, seeing houses and people became more frequent and we approached the village of Bukit lawang and the first of three foot bridges that join the two opposite banks of the river. Near the it seemed that all the people of Bukit Lawang were in the river to greet us with their laughter, friendly eyes and excited hellos and how are yous. But, they weren't there for us. They were there because it's what they do- Enjoy the life that surrounds them like I did in their jungle home as a guest for the time we shared it together.
Life here hasn't always been so great-
On a sadder note, In 2003 The jungle village of Bukit Lawang was nearly completely destroyed by a flash flood in the rainy season. It was Ramadan, Many of the residents were weak from fasting, the flood happened at nighttime and there was no electricity. In the space of minutes, Massive fallen trees swept by a wall of water came crashing through the night and down river instantly wiping out many of the houses and home stays in the area. At least 300 people died and everyone in the area was affected. Most of the people I met here eventually told me about how they lost close family members. The good news is that this stronghold of humanity has made a slow and steady recovery and certainly thrives today!
In a personal note, ( you don't have to read this) I think that the Jungle people of Bukit Lawang are as important to the essence of humanity with their rich child like laughter, warm friendly hearts, welcoming arms, clever perseverance, honor and dignity as our sky rises, computers and automobiles. I think it would be wise on our part to take note of their example of humanity as they cannot escape the presence of ours.
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