Tick Tock in Kuta-After Bromo, Prambanan and Borobodur

Holly wowness friends and peekers. I'm nearing the end of an epic journey. If you enjoyed this blog, you should know that I'm not done yet. and I'll probably continue to post at this site for my future travels. Still, I have one last day in Indonesia and 3 days, 2 nights in Hong Kong. I'm thinking that for my next trip- If I have a few months available, I'm going to India and if I only have a month, I want to do Viet Nam and Laos.. But If you're like me, I'm certainly open to suggestions. Here's what I've been up to the last week or so.

Shit, It seems like I have been travelling hard these last few days! Since leaving Toba busing and flying all that day then arriving in Jakarta only to realize that I couldn't hang in the contrast of my previous tranquil surroundings vs the most amazingly chaotic city i've been in then busing again after finding out that the train had been oversold and that my ticket wasn't valid and busing it 15 hrs to Jogjakarta, Hitting Jogja hard and visit temples on tours, drinking in alleyways at 3 am the night before with new friends and then busing it to Bromo all the next day to wake up again for another sunrise tour of some of the most magnificent scenery I've ever witnessed then immediately busing it again all day to catch a ferry to Denpasar, Bali then taking a cab with some new friends to Kuta where I walked the streets at night with my backpack in search of accommodation. Success. (that's alot of "ands"I'm here now road weary yet somehow supercharged and excited to see Hong Kong. Still, buses can give you an unparalleled sense of filth that is in so many ways dehumanising. I think a long, very long shower followed by a massage is going to be my remedy! Cha ching!

Indonesia, you have been so kind, welcoming and good to me. You've opened my eyes to appreciate your beauty and diverse culture. Thank you for sharing with me The shores of Bali, The monstrous Komodo Dragon, the intriguing nature of the orangutan, the peace and tranquility of Toba, the sand and serenity of Gilly islands, the mayhem of Jakarta, the temples of Jogjakarta, the magnificent sights and scenery of Bromo and The heart of the jungle. I could go on and on. Terima Akasi!

I'm uploading some photos to facebook, here's a few here to give you a taste of what's over there. You should also know that I can't tell the quality of my pictures at the moment the screen I'm using has a double view and is quite blurry. I hope that I'm uploading the good ones. Either way, I have only uploaded a fraction of my favorite pictures to facebook. I have hundreds to go through when I get home in a few days and look forward to sharing them with you after I crop them and possibly adjust the levels.

Hello Guys. I couldn't hang in the big city of Jakarta. You would not believe how big it is and how many people are there. For example, there's one night club that opens on Thursday and closes on Monday morning. It holds a meager 4000 people! Alcohol is also not the escape of chioce.. Strange, I know, in a country that happily announces on every flight that drug trafficking is a crime punishable by death. P.S. Have a nice day!

Jogjakarta is a different place all together. Still quite large in size, Jogja is ruled by a Sultan. Although the people here are primarily Muslim, There's a massive and mostly abandoned Buddha statue and temple here and a Hindu Temple of which I'm also going to visit tomorrow.

Today, I've been wandering around the little city villages of Sosrowijayan. There's three main areas, Gang one two and three which are mostly little walkways and crawlspaces that you have to be Indonesian to get through. They're each separated by walls. For good reason too, Gang three is where the prostitutes hang out. Gang1 and two are more or less hotels(I use that word loosely here) shops of sorts and restaurants. The people here are very friendly and kind. I have to wake up early to catch the sunrise over the Buddha statue but it shouldn't be a problem because my room is feet away from the mosque and here they start praying at 430 am with a loud song hailed over amplified speakers that lets the world know that everybody should praise Allah.

I'm killing some time here surfing the net and chillin because all my action will be tomorrow and have little else to do. I'm uploading a video of one of the orangutans I saw in Bukit lawang because It's the coolest thing to watch them walk and you should see it for yourself. This one is the one I was photographing from the river who decided that the rock I was on looked like a good place to sit-Sending me into the water with my friend. Also I'm uploading a video of my view at lake Toba.

Jungle Tigers

I have to say something about this because it's been eating away at me for quite some time. You may be as surprised to hear this as I have witnessed it for the whole of the time I've been in indonesia... Remember this though when you read a post like this one from me- the last thing I want to be is a preacher- I loathe them on most occasions because I believe that we should be smart enough to try to figure out the best path to our own identity and subsequent goodness. What I would like to be is an observer of life that can share it with friends from my perspective. Sometimes I'm ignorant, sometimes completely naive, sometimes I'm even offensive. But, Hopefully I can keep a measure of humility, a strong adventurous and optimistic spirit and an eagerness to learn about and share the beauty of human life that surrounds us even if I cannot help but to share our struggles, challenges and defects- It's is my solid belief that we learn the most from those.

So, here's what I have to say.

Seriously, it's not so uncommon to see beautiful young south east asian women under the arms of fat old white men far from their prime. The sight is usually disturbing to me. Many men come here to find a wife to live with, love and cherish for the rest of their life, have children with and adore. On the flip side, and the reason that I'm often disturbed by their presence is the fact that sexual tourism thrives in south east asia. The women here are so eager to find a loving western partner that the end up with so many men who essentially treat them as prostitutes. See, marraige here isn't always initially about love. Arrainged marraiges are common and primarily, a marraige is an aggreement between two people to take care of eachothers needs and to be good parents to their children..Men are providers and the women are the regulators. Love, hopefully comes in the package. Indonesia is a different than much of the rest of the surrounding areas. Outside of the Jakarta and Bali, Women are etremly oldfashined and shy. The interest in western men is certainly strong but they are reserved, proper and dignified. Not to say that every available girl doesn't let you know that she's interested, she just wont give her heart or body away so easily or wrecklessly- Her family, friends and Village are all watching. In Toba, I did meet a girl that I was very attracted to. She was beautiful, charming and sweet. She showed me around the town, introduced me to all her friends and taught me about her culture. We had drinks together and danced the night away. For a moment there, I dreamed of taking her away with me and giving her the life of a princess, she was so sweet (regardless of the fact that her ancestors ate humans) I didn't though, and the extent of our physical relationship never even succeeded a goodbye kiss that I will remember forever. It would be so easy to be the kind of guy who indulges in the ease of the moment with these willing, beautiful, younger girls.. but, I know from unfortunate experience that when you break a womans heart because you're a traveller and simply have to listen to the call of the road and can't take her with you that it stays with you and you're an asshole if if you can feel good about yourself and live with it. So for me, atleast, my rule is fun.

After that preface, Here's what might shock you.
TOURIST WOMEN HERE ARE THE BIGGEST SEXUAL TOURISTS I"VE MET! The indonesian girls are reserved and usually keep to themselfes (remember like I said..outside of the big cities) But anything goes for the guys! Keep in mind ladies that the men here also have feelings, they also dream of making a new life somewhere new and exciting and hope to live in relative riches and enjoy the western world. The closer I got to the jungle or even off the beaten path, the more women I saw with indonesian boyfriends, the more stories I heard from the locals about how western girls are crazy with jungle fever. It seemed that every local guy had atleast one tale of the girl who was here for a week, fucked his brains out and left him for dead, a shell of a man.

My last night in Toba, I danced with all my new friends. We celebrated, laughed and drank Arak, vodkas and beer. Beneath our laughter a growing sadness loomed and grew inside of me. It wouldn't be long and I would leave he girl that I had become so fond of without even kissing. (Sucker alert, I know) At one point in the night, as the party was dying down, I found myself alone with my thoughts. A young Indonesian Butok man walked by me and said casually "You look lonely brother, I'm lonely too!" and walked by. After I said my goodnights and goodbyes I walked down the road towards the Reggae hotel where I was staying and the same man ran from the bar saying "Brother, I'll give you a ride on my motorbike, Wait. I have to get out of here too" I aggreed, Bottle of Vodka in one hand, Bottle of water in the other. A beautiful Finnish girl chased him out of the bar. He didn't have to tell me what he was feeling. I'd seen them around town and all that night playing like young lovers. It was also her last night in his town and he knew as well that their relation ship was over. Infront of me stood a broken hearted man in too much pain to even be with the girl that he'd fell in love with because she would leave him and probably never see him again. A tear welled in his eye as he looked at the dusty street in his little town far from the places where movies are made, far from places where families don't share houses, far from places where there's reliable clean water, flushing toilets and efficient sewage systems. She laughingly begged him not to leave because she needed one more night with him. I handed him the bottle of vodka, patted him on the shoulder and walked home. So, is it better to have loved and lost rather than never to have loved at all? I'll say for me atleast that it depends on your intentions.

About Toba

Lastly, I have nothing to do today but meet some people later on.

I've arrived at Lake Toba. This is a really mellow place. I'm not sure how long I'm going to stay here because the end of my journey is approaching at light speed. In contrast to the people North of here, The Butok people of the Toba area are christian. It's a good thing too! Not even two hundred years ago they were eating their enemies and criminals. Ruins of that society and recorded history remains. Yesterday, I visited the old village where criminals were tried and beheaded before being eaten. Erie! An interesting note- before being killed and eaten, the dinner guests were tortured and marinaded with onion, lime, salt and garlic.

I have to run, It is actually time for lunch.

Mom, wouldn't it be strange if I fell in love with a girl who's ancestors were cannibals? I met one last night! She can hula hoop, dance to hip hop and carry a beer on her head all at the same time!

More from the and about the Jungle of Bukit Lawang and the people

After my last journal entry from writing on the middle of a rock in the jungle river we had a little surprise. Our guide got word from another guide up river that an Orangutan and her little friend (not child) were walking towards us on the river bed. I grabbed my camera and headed that way with a few others. We walked about 10 minutes and easily spotted the two. The lighting wasn't bad their red hair contrasted the riverbed nicely and the two didn't mind me getting too close from the river..see pictures at FB. At one point while I was taking pictures from a rocky outpost, the orangutan decided that it wanted to sit where I was and sent me into the river chest deep with my camera and a friend- Awesome! That morning was one of the best I've ever had. Waking up early enough to appreciate all the sounds and sights of my surroundings, tired legs, sore feet, interaction with orangutans. I ate a jungle fruit breakfast (passion fruit is so amazing), drank clean river water Sumatran coffee and later enjoyed the pure existence of this place soaking and bathing in the river. Water itself has never felt so much like such pure life to me.

Just so you know- I mentioned that there were two Orangutans here on the river, An older female and her younger friend. I say friend because I found out later from Firman that the younger ones mother was killed by another Orangutan in something like a territorial dispute. The child escaped. Lost and lonely, in need of a mother, the older female I saw with him took the youngster as her own. Although the younger one is now 6 or seven years old, the two are mostly still inseperable. I heard another story that's also quite sad that I'll share it with you here aswell. The jungle is ,of course, no easy place to survive. The first few years of an Orangutans life are crucial to it's survival. Occasionally an infant dies. When this happens, it's not unusual to find the mother carying the child with her on her back even weeks later as the body stinks and decays. It pauses sometimes to shake it or try to feed it, care for it or just try to wake it up. On My trek, I was informed that one such Orangutan is in that jungle now. I'm greatfull that I did not see her. It would have broke my heart.

After a second breakfast of pineapple and passion fruit and maybe just a little relaxing and sandcastle making with two friends I made from Holland, we had lunch and packed up our things for a float down the jungle river through mild rapids. All the while laughing hard at our own jokes and antics. We floated with the rolling water past jungle children playing, mothers bathing in the river, palm roofed huts scattered and all the splendor of the jungle canyon. Trees draped the hillsides with lush shades of green, flowers blossomed in every direction people smiled and waved every time we passed them- anxious to practice their English. After a short while, seeing houses and people became more frequent and we approached the village of Bukit lawang and the first of three foot bridges that join the two opposite banks of the river. Near the it seemed that all the people of Bukit Lawang were in the river to greet us with their laughter, friendly eyes and excited hellos and how are yous. But, they weren't there for us. They were there because it's what they do- Enjoy the life that surrounds them like I did in their jungle home as a guest for the time we shared it together.

Life here hasn't always been so great-

On a sadder note, In 2003 The jungle village of Bukit Lawang was nearly completely destroyed by a flash flood in the rainy season. It was Ramadan, Many of the residents were weak from fasting, the flood happened at nighttime and there was no electricity. In the space of minutes, Massive fallen trees swept by a wall of water came crashing through the night and down river instantly wiping out many of the houses and home stays in the area. At least 300 people died and everyone in the area was affected. Most of the people I met here eventually told me about how they lost close family members. The good news is that this stronghold of humanity has made a slow and steady recovery and certainly thrives today!

In a personal note, ( you don't have to read this) I think that the Jungle people of Bukit Lawang are as important to the essence of humanity with their rich child like laughter, warm friendly hearts, welcoming arms, clever perseverance, honor and dignity as our sky rises, computers and automobiles. I think it would be wise on our part to take note of their example of humanity as they cannot escape the presence of ours.

One last thing. I have a lot more to tell you guys but I'm already late for a fish fry here in lake toba. So, I'll post more about the jungle and my experiences here too.. OMG This place is so cool. Shit, I have to go. wish I could write about it more.. Tomorrow.

Peace, Brian

It seems like it has been forever since I posted anything

So much has happened, I have my journal with me here so I'll share some of it in present tense..

Before I begin

I feel like I left you all on a sour note with that last post from the airport. I apologise if you actually felt how uncomfortable I was sitting there thinking that my most important things were gone forever. I could care less about the clothes, souvenirs and toiletries, really! There's one thing in that bag that I would fly around the world to get back if I could and that's what really worried me. I have a pair of pants that I have worn since day one of travelling. They're beaten and a little dirty but they have sewn on them patches from nearly every cool place I've ever been. Not just the countries, or the cities, if someone sells a patch at a museum, I'll buy it and put it on the pants. I once bought a guys shirt in Togo, Africa because there was a patch on it that said Togo(I was desperate, there weren't any Togo patches to be found!) Anyway, All's well that ends well, I've had the most amazing week in the jungle- please allow me to share with you my experience. while I simultaneously upload photos to facebook.

After my experience at the airport, I caught the first bus (and the last one of the night) to Bukit Lawang where I hoped to explore the jungle there in search of our hairy red cousins. The bus ride to BL is an experience to remember. It's actually not really a bus at all, it was a decrepit, dilapidated, overcrowded minivan that someone hailed off the street for me. That thing felt like it was falling apart, No suspension, vibrating windows, shredded seats, no muffler and all the smells of an Asian summer. Did you know that you can fit 22 people in one of those.. remember, I'm talking about a Mini van! you can fit even more on top of it. I think that at one time we had 25 total on board.Body heat, breast feeding, coughing, chain smoking, farting and crying babies. I tell you about this bus now but you haven't lived until you take a "chicken" bus somewhere. I'm getting ahead of myself but I 'll tell you now that the chicken bus includes all the fore mentioned qualities multiplied by at least one hundred. I saw one drive by today that had about twenty five people on the top and was crowded the same inside! Back to the jungle- I have to write this down.

From the Journal-

I write this from a rock in the middle of a river in the middle of the jungle. I slept under tarp tent and stars last night, close to the earth. Somewhere close to me now in the morning sun Macaques are plotting to invade the privacy I'm enjoying on this perch while I write and sip river water coffee and listen to this magnificent water bubble and roll along.

It turns out that bukit lawang means "Door to the Jungle Hills"! These hills are no small feat to climb!

Yesterday, my jungle guide Firman and I had the greatest time hiking and climbing these very hills I'm enjoying the view of now. I wore vibram shoes for the hike so it was like walking bare foot through the jungle. My feet are sore now but it's worth it to feel that amazingly close to the earth (dave knows what I mean here!) Although my feet are a little sore, it sure beats the blisters and scrapes I've been getting from my Tevas!

The search for Orangutans was a huge success for me. In the morning even before the trek, I spotted a young male walking along the riverbed! Shortly after our hike began, Firman and I spotted another older male Orangutan swinging in the trees. I followed him for quite some time. About an hour later, We found our first mother with child. There's no doubt in my mind now that these animals have some very human qualities. The mother held her child and played with her while they moved effortlessly through the jungle trees. She even cautioned the little one when she came too close to me. Finally, later that day, we found another mother with child. This orangutan was special, they call her "Mena" Firman told me that mena was aggressive towards people but that we shouldn't have any problems so long as we had a few pieces of fruit. After I posed for pictures about 8 feet from her and her child I received the rest of the story. Mena has a very long, very bad history of attacking guides and trekkers alike. I now know that posing for pictures with her was borderline insane- she has bitten more than 50 people in the past and she doesn't just bite! she wrestles and fights and wont quit unless she knows that you're hurt. She doesn't feel pain apparently, sticks only make her more angry and one time... she attacked a guide who had a knife who (as a last resort to save himself from her beating) slashed her face. She's a bad ass! with a bad ass scar too! This day was no absolutely no exception from mena's tyrannical rule of the jungle. We didn't know it at the time but Mean Mena had just sent a guide to the hospital about a half hour before she spotted us in the jungle- she hunts tourists! She did seem to look quite content when I was standing an orangutans arms length from her.. Blood thirsty orange bitch! At lunch in the jungle later, Firman demonstrated how large she can open her mouth by showing me the scars mena gave him two yeas ago when she nearly bit through his knee puncturing his muscle and tendons in the shape of an orangutan mouth from the top and front of his leg to the back side- WOW! He told me also later that most of the guides had been bitten by her at some time and most of them try to avoid her but like I said, she hunts tourists for food! give her some passion fruit and she's as happy as can be. That is, until you run out!

The orangutans I saw in the jungle yesterday were great. Still, I keep thinking that I'm supposed to feel some sort of enlightenment after being so close to them. I don't. It is no doubt to me that we're certainly more closely related to them in the evolutionary chain of things than most other animals but in their faces I don't see peace and enlightenment. It's evident to me that we as humans created those things with our big minds, creative reasoning, will to succeed and the many abilities that we pioneer as the dominant race of this planet. Orangutans have been left behind to live in the trees and pick flees out of each others hair. In them, I see a wild animal, driven by instinct to survive. Smart enough to be greedy, capable of emotion and compelled by the law of the jungle which you may only ever grasp if you enter-

I am still a curiosity to ever closer and surrounding macaques!


Jungle night, River bed camp

Deep green water flows with persistent and gentle force with medium fizz and yawning style across a path carved by centuries of diligence in a bed now barely used but kind and welcoming enough to share it with myself and 5 others last night under starlight next to a campfire. The jungle and mountainous hills watch the water grow and shrink with the rainfall in seasons constantly eroding the shape of the accomodating canyon which holds it all. Life here is abundant, ever present and thriving- Gushing into existence with the river and the light from the sun in so many forms. It swings from the trees, it crawls from holes on hillsides, it hides under rocks, swims in the river, flutters, buzzes or glides overhead and it eats and savors the rain and blossoms in so many colors to rejoice its mere existence and for the simple sake of its being. Perfection in simple and pure form. I cannot help but to feel completely alive and in good company in the belly of this jungle. It did not choose me even though I now feel completely welcome. I sought out her mouth, eyes watching me the night before, green morning rose in my heart and I climbed vines down her throat and hiked hills and shared my sweat with a days muddy trek down trails, up trails around massive, sky scraping mahogany trees, through twine like parasitic root structures. Feet on bald rocks slipping past laughing and taunting monkeys and deep eyed orangutans that carry on with life here with babes in their arms stretching and swinging through nesty trees- their homes. Along the crest of this canyon mad my descent, holding ropes of roots and hands of branches, dropping stories to the river bed and finally to this massive rock in the belly of it all where jungle breeze and morning mist share with me tranquility.